3a: Bidding - Unbalanced Hands
3a.1: Opening the bidding with an unbalanced hand
As a general rule, with an unbalanced hand that isn't very strong
(i.e. about 12-19 points), you should open the bidding at the one
level with your longest suit.
If you have two suits of equal length, you should open the highest
ranking of these unless
they are spades and clubs, in which case open 1C.
Examples
What would you open with these?
("x" represents a low card)
1) | S H D C |
AKxxx
x
Qxxx
AJx
|
2) | S H D C |
AKxxx
xx
x
AQJxx
|
3) | S H D C |
x
AQxxx
KQJxx
xx
|
4) | S H D C |
AKxxx
xx
J
Qxxxx
|
Answers
3a.2: Responses to your partner's 1 of a suit opening
It is important to make a bid if your partner has opened the
bidding and you have six or more points. This is because,
although s/he may only have 12 points, it is possible for
his/her hand to be a lot better than that. You must find out
more about partner's hand by keeping the auction open (remember
those game bonuses?). The opening bid of one of a suit, unlike
the opening 1NT, is not limited.
Here is a quick reference guide to responses to 1 of a suit
openings. They will be discussed in more detail later in this
lesson, and in the next lesson.
Pass |
Any weak hand (less than 6 points)
|
|
Raise opener's suit
|
2 level
6-9, 4+ cards
|
3 level
10-12, 4+ cards
|
4 level
13-15, 4+ cards
|
|
No Trumps |
1 level
6-9
|
2 level
10-12 balanced
|
3 level
13-15 balanced
|
|
New Suit |
1 level
6-17, 4+ cards
|
2 level (no jump)
8-17, 4+ cards
|
Jump bid
16+, 4+ cards
|
|
Two general rules to remember are:
- A bid of a suit, unless it is conventional, almost always
shows 4 cards in that suit.
- A change-of-suit response is
forcing.
3a.3: Discussion of responses to opening 1(suit)
There are three possibilities that we will discuss here:
- you have four or more cards in partner's suit
- you have a balanced hand without four cards in partner's suit
- you have neither of the above, and therefore have a suit or
suits of your own
During this lesson, we will deal with the first two cases.
3a.3.1: You have four or more cards in partner's suit
If this is the case, you and your partner have found a fit.
This means that you have the majority of the cards in the suit
between you, so it would be a good choice for a trump suit. So,
you must tell your partner this by bidding the same suit at a
higher level. This is known as raising your partner's suit, or
supporting your partner.
When you and your partner have a fit, you (as responder) can add
extra points to your hand if you have any useful distributional
values. To demonstrate, consider these hands:
1) | S H D C |
KQJxxxxxx
xx
xx
none
|
2) | S H D C |
KQJx
xxx
xxx
xxx
|
It is easy to see that the first hand will be much more useful to
partner than the second hand. It is likely to lose 3 less clubs,
and one less heart and diamond. One way of allowing for this is
to add points for distribution when raising partner's suit. This
is done as follows:
After adjusting your point count, bid at the appropriate level
according to this scale:
6-9 points |
|
10-12 points |
|
13-15 points |
|
By responding like this, you agree that your partner's suit will
be trumps, and tell him/her how good your hand is. Bids like
these and the no trump responses that will be described next
are known as limit bids. This is because they tell your partner
the limits of your strength. (Like the NT openings and rebids we
talked about last week).
3a.3.2 You have a balanced hand
Here, you should bid no trumps to tell your partner about the
shape of your hand. The level you bid at is according to this
scale:
6-9 points |
|
10-12 points |
|
13-15 points |
|
The exception to this rule is, when you have a four card major
that you can show at the one level, bid it. You can always bid
no trumps on the next round. For example:
In this sequence you still show a balanced hand with 6-9 points,
but you also explore the possibility that there is a heart fit
between your side's hands. Next week we will discuss change-of-suit
responses to suit openings more fully. For the moment, use the
reference guide given above.
Examples
What would you respond if partner opened 1H?
1) | S H D C |
Kxx
Jxxx
Axxx
xx
|
2) | S H D C |
Kxx
xx
AQxx
Qxxx
|
3) | S H D C |
xxx
QJxx
xx
Jxxx
|
4) | S H D C |
Kxxx
xx
Axx
Qxxx
|
5) | S H D C |
Kxx
AJxxxx
Qxxx
none
|
Answers
3a.4: Opener's rebid
3a.4.1: Partner supported your suit
If your partner has supported your suit, you must decide whether
to go on to game, whether to invite your partner to bid game, or
whether to pass.
The strategy here is to work out the range of points between the
two hands. (This is always the first step when partner has made
a limit bid.)
If you know there are at least enough points between you for game
(remember: 25 for H/S, 28 for C/D, bid it (no messing around!).
If you can see that your side may have enough points for game if
partner has the maximum number of points s/he has shown (e.g. if
the bidding has gone 1H from you, 2H from partner, and you have
16 points), then invite to game by raising the bidding one more
level.
If there is no chance that your side has enough points to make a
game, just pass.
Examples
You opened 1H, partner responded 2H. What is your rebid?
1) | S H D C |
AKQ
AQJxx
Jx
Qxx
|
2) | S H D C |
Kx
KJxxx
AJxx
Jx
|
3) | S H D C |
xx
KQJxx
AQx
KQx
|
Answers
3a.4.2: Your partner responded in no trumps
What you need to decide here is:
- Whether the best contract is likely to be NT or a suit
contract
- What level to bid to.
If your hand is fairly balanced (e.g. 5332, and the 5 card suit
isn't very strong), you will probably decide that NT is the right
place to be. To decide how many to bid, work out the range of
points you and your partner could have.
- If there are enough for game (e.g. you have 15, and partner
responded 2NT), bid 3NT directly.
- If partner has responded 1NT and there may be enough for
game (e.g. you have 17), bid 2NT, inviting partner to bid
game with 8 or 9 points.
- If there is no chance of game (the maximum combined point
count is less than 25), then pass.
Otherwise, the bid you make depends on the shape of your hand.
- If you only have one biddable suit (5+ card), you should
rebid that suit. If you have much more than the minimum point
count for your opening bid (i.e. about 16+ points), you can
jump a level in the bidding to show this.
- If you know you should be in game in your suit, i.e. you
are holding a 6+ card suit - partner must have at least 2
cards in the suit - you have a fit), and the combined point
count is enough for game, bid game. For example, if you have
16 points and a 6 card spade suit, you should open 1S. If
partner responds 2NT, you can bid 4S confidently, because you
have a fit, and at least 26 points between the hands.
- If you have another (4+ card) suit to bid, then bid it.
Again, you can jump a level to show a hand with 16+ points.
Examples
What is your rebid with these hands after you opened 1H and partner
responded 1NT?
1) | S H D C |
Kxx
AQxxx
Kxxx
x
|
2) | S H D C |
AQx
Qxxxx
KQx
Ax
|
3) | S H D C |
Qxx
AKQxxx
Jxx
x
|
4) | S H D C |
Kx
AQJxx
x
AKxxx
|
5) | S H D C |
xxx
Kxxxx
KQx
Ax
|
6) | S H D C |
QJx
AKQJxx
Qx
Ax
|
7) | S H D C |
Axx
KQxx
KQJx
Ax
|
8) | S H D C |
xx
AKJxxx
KQx
Ax
|
Answers
3a.5: Responder's rebid
The only point we're going to discuss here is preference. As
responder, if your partner has shown a two-suited hand, you are
expected to give preference to one of his suits (by passing,
bidding the other suit, or raising the last suit bid) at an
appropriate level, depending on your strength. (That is, of
course, if you don't want to bid no trumps, or insist on your
suit if it's long enough.) This means that if you have a weak
hand, either bid the suit opened if you have at least as many
cards in that suit as in opener's second suit, or pass. In
effect, you choose the suit that your partnership holds the
most cards in for trumps.
For example, after the bidding sequence:
you should pass with more diamonds than hearts, and bid 2H with
at least as many hearts as diamonds. This makes sure your partner
plays the contract in the suit you prefer, which is the suit that
you have the best fit in.
3b: Simple card play (2)
In this lesson we will look at the play of suit contracts. Because
there is a trump suit to be considered, we will be looking at pairs
of hands, rather than suits in isolation.
3b.1: Drawing trumps
This means playing off several rounds of trumps, so that the
opponents no longer hold any cards in that suit. This is the
first thing you should consider doing (after you have counted
your top tricks and losers). It is possible that you may decide
to wait before drawing trumps, or you may decide not to do it at
all. However, it is a decision you must make.
It is normally best to draw trumps as early as possible. This hand
demonstrates why:
W: |
AKx
AKxxx
Axx
xx
|
E: |
Qxxx
QJxx
xxx
Ax
|
|
Contract: 4H by West
Lead: 5S
|
West can count 10 tricks (S:AKQ, H:AKQJx, D:A and C:A), and 3 losers
(2 diamonds and a club). So far so good. What can go wrong? Why
shouldn't West take the three spade tricks, then take the hearts
and the other aces?
There is a reason, and this is it: the chances are pretty low that
one of the defenders is void in
spades and able to trump the first trick, but they are slightly
higher that a defender will be able to
trump the second or third
round of the suit.
To prevent this, West plans to take his heart tricks as soon as he
wins the lead with the first spade trick. This prevents apparently
certain winners being trumped, and ensures that West makes the
contract. This is called drawing trumps.
One thing that you will find very useful, that you should try to
practice from now on, is counting how many cards are left in a
suit. This is most useful when drawing trumps (so you know when
to stop playing trumps), or when establishing long suits (so you
know when the remaining cards have become winners). Try to keep
track of the cards played in trump suits, and in long suits in no
trump contracts. It will get easier with practice!
3b.2: Establishing side suits
This, combined with drawing trumps, can be a useful way to dispose
of excess losers. It is possible that one hand (usually dummy)
contains a long suit other than trumps, which can be
established
to provide some winning cards. If there are some losers in
declarer's hand, dummy's long suit can provide a convenient
"parking place" for these losers.
Consider the following example:
W: |
Kx
AKxxx
xxx
xxx
|
E: |
QJ10x
QJxx
Axx
Ax
|
|
Contract: 4H by West
Lead: 3H
|
West can count 10 winners (3 spades - once the ace has been
knocked out, 5 hearts, a diamond, and a club). However, there
seem to be 4 losers (a spade, two diamonds, and a club). The
problem can be overcome by first drawing trumps, then playing
the KS. If the defenders don't take the AS, West should carry
on with the suit until they do. After all, they can't trump one
of the spade tricks. On the third and fourth spade tricks, West
can discard the two small diamonds from his/her own hand.
3b.3: Ruffing with the short trump suit
Quite often, when there seems to be no way to make your contract,
this technique will be invaluable. If you can make some of your
trumps separately, instead of using them up by drawing the
opponents' trumps, you may be able to make the contract.
This example will demonstrate the principle:
W: |
Axx
AKQJ10
Axx
xx
|
E: |
x
xxxx
xxxx
AJxx
|
|
Contract: 4H by West
Lead: 3H
|
West can see 8 tricks (5 hearts, and 3 aces). If he draws trumps,
that is the highest number of tricks that West can make.
However, if he can use two of dummy's trumps to make tricks before
drawing trumps, he can make the contract. The plan is to win the
first trick, play the AS immediately,
ruff a spade in dummy, get
back to hand with the AH and ruff another spade. This way, two
little trumps have made tricks which they would not have made if
West had drawn trumps immediately.
This contract isn't guaranteed to make, but at least West has done
the best s/he can. It is usually the case that declarer isn't
certain of making a contract; the aim is to maximise the chances
of making it.
Note that ruffing with the
long trump suit isn't nearly as useful, because it is likely
that the little trumps in the long suit will make tricks anyway
- they won't get played under the higher honours when trumps are
drawn, as little trumps in the short suit would do.
Also note that it may be necessary to lose a trick before you can
ruff with the short trump suit.
For example, if you have something like this:
W: | S H |
Axx
AKQJ10
|
E: | S H |
xx
xxx
|
and you need one more trick, you should play the AS, then another
spade, as soon as you are on lead. Then when you next get the
lead, you can ruff a spade
in dummy.