3a: Bidding - Unbalanced Hands

3a.1: Opening the bidding with an unbalanced hand

As a general rule, with an unbalanced hand that isn't very strong (i.e. about 12-19 points), you should open the bidding at the one level with your longest suit.

If you have two suits of equal length, you should open the highest ranking of these unless they are spades and clubs, in which case open 1C.

Examples

What would you open with these? ("x" represents a low card)
1)S
H
D
C
AKxxx
x
Qxxx
AJx
2)S
H
D
C
AKxxx
xx
x
AQJxx
3)S
H
D
C
x
AQxxx
KQJxx
xx
4)S
H
D
C
AKxxx
xx
J
Qxxxx
Answers

3a.2: Responses to your partner's 1 of a suit opening

It is important to make a bid if your partner has opened the bidding and you have six or more points. This is because, although s/he may only have 12 points, it is possible for his/her hand to be a lot better than that. You must find out more about partner's hand by keeping the auction open (remember those game bonuses?). The opening bid of one of a suit, unlike the opening 1NT, is not limited.

Here is a quick reference guide to responses to 1 of a suit openings. They will be discussed in more detail later in this lesson, and in the next lesson.
Pass
Any weak hand (less than 6 points)
Raise opener's suit
2 level
6-9, 4+ cards
3 level
10-12, 4+ cards
4 level
13-15, 4+ cards
No Trumps
1 level
6-9
2 level
10-12 balanced
3 level
13-15 balanced
New Suit
1 level
6-17, 4+ cards
2 level (no jump)
8-17, 4+ cards
Jump bid
16+, 4+ cards

Two general rules to remember are:

3a.3: Discussion of responses to opening 1(suit)

There are three possibilities that we will discuss here:
  1. you have four or more cards in partner's suit
  2. you have a balanced hand without four cards in partner's suit
  3. you have neither of the above, and therefore have a suit or suits of your own
During this lesson, we will deal with the first two cases.

3a.3.1: You have four or more cards in partner's suit

If this is the case, you and your partner have found a fit.

This means that you have the majority of the cards in the suit between you, so it would be a good choice for a trump suit. So, you must tell your partner this by bidding the same suit at a higher level. This is known as raising your partner's suit, or supporting your partner.

When you and your partner have a fit, you (as responder) can add extra points to your hand if you have any useful distributional values. To demonstrate, consider these hands:
1)S
H
D
C
KQJxxxxxx
xx
xx
none
2)S
H
D
C
KQJx
xxx
xxx
xxx
It is easy to see that the first hand will be much more useful to partner than the second hand. It is likely to lose 3 less clubs, and one less heart and diamond. One way of allowing for this is to add points for distribution when raising partner's suit. This is done as follows:
For each doubleton
1 point
For each singleton
2 points
For each void
3 points
After adjusting your point count, bid at the appropriate level according to this scale:
6-9 points
2 level
10-12 points
3 level
13-15 points
4 level
By responding like this, you agree that your partner's suit will be trumps, and tell him/her how good your hand is. Bids like these and the no trump responses that will be described next are known as limit bids. This is because they tell your partner the limits of your strength. (Like the NT openings and rebids we talked about last week).

3a.3.2 You have a balanced hand

Here, you should bid no trumps to tell your partner about the shape of your hand. The level you bid at is according to this scale:
6-9 points
1NT
10-12 points
2NT
13-15 points
3NT
The exception to this rule is, when you have a four card major that you can show at the one level, bid it. You can always bid no trumps on the next round. For example:
Partner You
1D 1H
1S 1NT
In this sequence you still show a balanced hand with 6-9 points, but you also explore the possibility that there is a heart fit between your side's hands. Next week we will discuss change-of-suit responses to suit openings more fully. For the moment, use the reference guide given above.

Examples

What would you respond if partner opened 1H?
1)S
H
D
C
Kxx
Jxxx
Axxx
xx
2)S
H
D
C
Kxx
xx
AQxx
Qxxx
3)S
H
D
C
xxx
QJxx
xx
Jxxx
4)S
H
D
C
Kxxx
xx
Axx
Qxxx
5)S
H
D
C
Kxx
AJxxxx
Qxxx
none
Answers

3a.4: Opener's rebid

3a.4.1: Partner supported your suit

If your partner has supported your suit, you must decide whether to go on to game, whether to invite your partner to bid game, or whether to pass.

The strategy here is to work out the range of points between the two hands. (This is always the first step when partner has made a limit bid.)

If you know there are at least enough points between you for game (remember: 25 for H/S, 28 for C/D, bid it (no messing around!).

If you can see that your side may have enough points for game if partner has the maximum number of points s/he has shown (e.g. if the bidding has gone 1H from you, 2H from partner, and you have 16 points), then invite to game by raising the bidding one more level.

If there is no chance that your side has enough points to make a game, just pass.

Examples

You opened 1H, partner responded 2H. What is your rebid?
1)S
H
D
C
AKQ
AQJxx
Jx
Qxx
2)S
H
D
C
Kx
KJxxx
AJxx
Jx
3)S
H
D
C
xx
KQJxx
AQx
KQx
Answers

3a.4.2: Your partner responded in no trumps

What you need to decide here is:
  1. Whether the best contract is likely to be NT or a suit contract
  2. What level to bid to.
If your hand is fairly balanced (e.g. 5332, and the 5 card suit isn't very strong), you will probably decide that NT is the right place to be. To decide how many to bid, work out the range of points you and your partner could have. Otherwise, the bid you make depends on the shape of your hand.
Examples

What is your rebid with these hands after you opened 1H and partner responded 1NT?
1)S
H
D
C
Kxx
AQxxx
Kxxx
x
2)S
H
D
C
AQx
Qxxxx
KQx
Ax
3)S
H
D
C
Qxx
AKQxxx
Jxx
x
4)S
H
D
C
Kx
AQJxx
x
AKxxx
5)S
H
D
C
xxx
Kxxxx
KQx
Ax
6)S
H
D
C
QJx
AKQJxx
Qx
Ax
7)S
H
D
C
Axx
KQxx
KQJx
Ax
8)S
H
D
C
xx
AKJxxx
KQx
Ax
Answers

3a.5: Responder's rebid

The only point we're going to discuss here is preference. As responder, if your partner has shown a two-suited hand, you are expected to give preference to one of his suits (by passing, bidding the other suit, or raising the last suit bid) at an appropriate level, depending on your strength. (That is, of course, if you don't want to bid no trumps, or insist on your suit if it's long enough.) This means that if you have a weak hand, either bid the suit opened if you have at least as many cards in that suit as in opener's second suit, or pass. In effect, you choose the suit that your partnership holds the most cards in for trumps.

For example, after the bidding sequence:
Partner You
1H 1NT
2D ??
you should pass with more diamonds than hearts, and bid 2H with at least as many hearts as diamonds. This makes sure your partner plays the contract in the suit you prefer, which is the suit that you have the best fit in.

3b: Simple card play (2)

In this lesson we will look at the play of suit contracts. Because there is a trump suit to be considered, we will be looking at pairs of hands, rather than suits in isolation.

3b.1: Drawing trumps

This means playing off several rounds of trumps, so that the opponents no longer hold any cards in that suit. This is the first thing you should consider doing (after you have counted your top tricks and losers). It is possible that you may decide to wait before drawing trumps, or you may decide not to do it at all. However, it is a decision you must make.

It is normally best to draw trumps as early as possible. This hand demonstrates why:
W: AKx
AKxxx
Axx
xx
E: Qxxx
QJxx
xxx
Ax
Contract: 4H by West
Lead: 5S
West can count 10 tricks (S:AKQ, H:AKQJx, D:A and C:A), and 3 losers (2 diamonds and a club). So far so good. What can go wrong? Why shouldn't West take the three spade tricks, then take the hearts and the other aces?

There is a reason, and this is it: the chances are pretty low that one of the defenders is void in spades and able to trump the first trick, but they are slightly higher that a defender will be able to trump the second or third round of the suit.

To prevent this, West plans to take his heart tricks as soon as he wins the lead with the first spade trick. This prevents apparently certain winners being trumped, and ensures that West makes the contract. This is called drawing trumps.

One thing that you will find very useful, that you should try to practice from now on, is counting how many cards are left in a suit. This is most useful when drawing trumps (so you know when to stop playing trumps), or when establishing long suits (so you know when the remaining cards have become winners). Try to keep track of the cards played in trump suits, and in long suits in no trump contracts. It will get easier with practice!

3b.2: Establishing side suits

This, combined with drawing trumps, can be a useful way to dispose of excess losers. It is possible that one hand (usually dummy) contains a long suit other than trumps, which can be established to provide some winning cards. If there are some losers in declarer's hand, dummy's long suit can provide a convenient "parking place" for these losers.

Consider the following example:
W: Kx
AKxxx
xxx
xxx
E: QJ10x
QJxx
Axx
Ax
Contract: 4H by West
Lead: 3H
West can count 10 winners (3 spades - once the ace has been knocked out, 5 hearts, a diamond, and a club). However, there seem to be 4 losers (a spade, two diamonds, and a club). The problem can be overcome by first drawing trumps, then playing the KS. If the defenders don't take the AS, West should carry on with the suit until they do. After all, they can't trump one of the spade tricks. On the third and fourth spade tricks, West can discard the two small diamonds from his/her own hand.

3b.3: Ruffing with the short trump suit

Quite often, when there seems to be no way to make your contract, this technique will be invaluable. If you can make some of your trumps separately, instead of using them up by drawing the opponents' trumps, you may be able to make the contract.

This example will demonstrate the principle:
W: Axx
AKQJ10
Axx
xx
E: x
xxxx
xxxx
AJxx
Contract: 4H by West
Lead: 3H
West can see 8 tricks (5 hearts, and 3 aces). If he draws trumps, that is the highest number of tricks that West can make.

However, if he can use two of dummy's trumps to make tricks before drawing trumps, he can make the contract. The plan is to win the first trick, play the AS immediately, ruff a spade in dummy, get back to hand with the AH and ruff another spade. This way, two little trumps have made tricks which they would not have made if West had drawn trumps immediately.

This contract isn't guaranteed to make, but at least West has done the best s/he can. It is usually the case that declarer isn't certain of making a contract; the aim is to maximise the chances of making it.

Note that ruffing with the long trump suit isn't nearly as useful, because it is likely that the little trumps in the long suit will make tricks anyway - they won't get played under the higher honours when trumps are drawn, as little trumps in the short suit would do.

Also note that it may be necessary to lose a trick before you can ruff with the short trump suit. For example, if you have something like this:
W:S
H
Axx
AKQJ10
E:S
H
xx
xxx
and you need one more trick, you should play the AS, then another spade, as soon as you are on lead. Then when you next get the lead, you can ruff a spade in dummy.